Chef Mirko Febbrile Unveils Culinary Innovations at Somma

At Somma, a high-end restaurant located at 46 Kim Yam Road, New Bahru, Singapore, chef Mirko Febbrile is redefining fine dining through innovative culinary techniques. The restaurant features a dedicated research and development kitchen where Febbrile and his team spend extensive hours crafting the latest menu, which has taken three months of meticulous planning and experimentation.

The experience at Somma starts not with luxurious ingredients like caviar, but with an unassuming eggplant. During a recent R&D session, Febbrile showcased a unique technique inspired by traditional methods from Puglia, Italy. He wrapped the eggplant in fig leaves and thyme, encasing it in clay sourced from a nearby pottery studio. After baking, the clay is cracked open, releasing an aromatic blend of smoky thyme and earthiness. The eggplant, transformed into a silky puree, serves as the base for a ditali pasta dish.

Febbrile emphasized the importance of time in creating exceptional dishes. “The best luxury that people can find these days is time,” he stated. The process to age a scallop in wax takes five days, while a garum can take up to six months to ferment. He noted that the team has endured 50 failed soufflés before achieving the perfect one, highlighting the commitment to quality and innovation.

Embracing Failure as a Path to Culinary Mastery

The acclaimed Vendemmia menu features mushrooms prominently, presented in a way that transforms their perception. Upon entering the dining room, guests are greeted by extraordinary mushroom sculptures, a whimsical nod to the season’s themes of abundance and craftsmanship. The menu incorporates fungi sourced from local farm Bewilder, including lion’s mane and golden oyster mushrooms. Febbrile invites diners to explore the various textures and tastes, describing each type with enthusiasm.

R&D head Loris Caporizzi expressed the challenges of the creative process, acknowledging that failure is an integral part of their work. “They say to me, ‘Oh, you have the best job, because you just create.’ On the other hand, the job is really constant failure,” Caporizzi said. Each failure, however, serves as a stepping stone for future successes, contributing to the growth of their culinary repertoire.

The team dedicates an estimated 1,800 man-hours to develop each new menu. Febbrile explained that should they decide to work on a menu for an entire year, they would fully embrace the exploration process. The freedom to experiment is viewed as a luxury, akin to scientific research in a laboratory.

Transforming Ingredients into Culinary Conversations

The meticulous approach extends to the fermentation process, where Caporizzi oversees various projects, including shoyus and miso. These items bubble and darken over time, requiring patience and attention. He recounted a memorable failure involving a chicken garum, a testament to the learning curves inherent in gourmet cooking.

As the dining experience unfolds, guests are advised to inquire about the soufflé crafted by pastry chef Jeanette Ow. Her fig soufflé, made with sheep’s cheese and topped with a frozen fig disc, has undergone more than 50 iterations before achieving the desired result. Ow’s dedication to perfecting this dessert reflects the broader ethos of persistence that permeates Somma’s kitchen.

Febbrile encapsulated the essence of their culinary philosophy: “R&D is like a conversation with the ingredient: You listen, you push, you compromise, until it shows you what it wants to be.” This intentional process, which merges traditional methods with modern techniques, is aimed at resurrecting and reinventing culinary experiences.

In this unique setting, each dish tells a story of exploration and innovation, offering diners an opportunity to engage with food on a deeper level. The emphasis on circular cooking and minimizing waste adds layers of meaning to the dining experience. At Somma, the focus is not merely on the final dish, but on the journey of creation that ultimately shapes unforgettable culinary memories.