Chef Mirko Febbrile Transforms Eggplant into Culinary Art at Somma

At Somma, a unique dining establishment in Singapore, chef Mirko Febbrile is redefining fine dining through innovative culinary techniques. The latest menu, which took three months to develop, features an unexpected star: the humble eggplant. This dish exemplifies Febbrile’s commitment to time-intensive preparation and creative experimentation, drawing on traditional cooking methods from Puglia, Italy.

During a recent research and development (R&D) session, Febbrile demonstrated how he uses leftover clay from a nearby pottery studio to enhance the eggplant’s flavor. He wraps the vegetable in fig leaves and thyme, seals it in the clay, and bakes it, resulting in a dish that releases an aromatic blend of smoky thyme and earthy notes when cracked open. The eggplant’s flesh transforms into a creamy puree, which serves as a base for a ditali pasta dish. “It feels like we took this dish from your grandmother’s house, because it’s super comforting; but the approach is above and beyond,” Febbrile remarked.

The menu, inspired by the concept of “abundance, unity and craftsmanship,” also highlights mushrooms, which are showcased in artistic forms throughout the dining area. Local farm Bewilder supplies a variety of mushrooms, including lion’s mane and golden oysters. Febbrile meticulously explores their flavors, emphasizing the importance of texture and taste in each dish. “This is very juicy, nice sharpness. This is a bit crunchy,” he explained while experimenting with different varieties.

Febbrile’s team invests approximately 1,800 man-hours in developing each new menu, a process that often involves numerous failures. “They say to me, ‘Oh, you have the best job, because you just create.’ On the other hand, the job is really constant failure,” noted Loris Caporizzi, Somma’s head of R&D. Each experiment, while not always successful, contributes to the evolution of the dishes.

The fermentation shelf, a point of pride for Caporizzi, showcases a variety of homemade products, including bread shoyu and tamari. These experiments are part of the chefs’ daily routines, along with staff lunches and discussions about their culinary creations. The process embodies the spirit of learning and growth, as each failure lays the groundwork for future successes.

Pastry chef Jeanette Ow faced her own challenges with the fig souffle, which required over 50 attempts before achieving the desired result. “R&D is like a conversation with the ingredient: You listen, you push, you compromise,” Febbrile stated, highlighting the collaborative nature of the culinary process.

Somma’s commitment to innovation extends beyond individual dishes; it embraces a philosophy of circular cooking, aimed at minimizing waste and maximizing flavor. “Every trial teaches us something,” Febbrile said. “The dish may last only a moment, but the memory it creates — that stays.”

Located at 46 Kim Yam Road, New Bahru #04-02, Somma invites diners to experience the artistry and meticulous craftsmanship that define its culinary offerings.