Designers Set to Make Waves at Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks

The fashion world is poised for significant changes as **thirteen creative directors** debut their first womenswear collections for new brands during the upcoming fashion weeks in **Milan** and **Paris**. This season features designers such as **Demna** at **Gucci**, **Jonathan Anderson** at **Dior**, and **Matthieu Blazy** at **Chanel**. As the luxury sector grapples with declining sales and a disengaged customer base, the stakes for these designers and their respective brands are exceptionally high.

In the current environment, the challenge is clear: the designers who can revitalize a brand’s image and set compelling trends will emerge victorious, while those who fail to connect may not last long. Stylist **Katie Grand** captured this sentiment on social media, describing fashion as “part coronation, part execution,” where social media serves as the arena for scrutiny.

Key Players in Milan

**Gucci**
**Designer**: Demna
**Debut Date**: September 23
**Background**: Formerly with Maison Margiela, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga, Demna’s appointment is crucial for Gucci, which is a major revenue source for its parent company, **Kering**. The brand has seen a decline in sales, with **2023 revenue** reported at **€7.7 billion** (approximately **US$9.13 billion**). Demna’s prior success at Balenciaga has set high expectations for rejuvenating Gucci’s appeal.

**Jil Sander**
**Designer**: Simone Bellotti
**Debut Date**: September 24
**Background**: Bellotti, the first creative director selected by **OTB Group** after acquiring Jil Sander in 2021, is tasked with reshaping the brand’s image while continuing its expansion efforts.

**Versace**
**Designer**: Dario Vitale
**Debut Date**: September 26
**Background**: Recently appointed chief creative officer, Vitale is the first external designer to lead Versace, following the brand’s acquisition by **Prada** for **€1.25 billion**. His initial showcase at the Venice Film Festival, featuring looks for celebrities like Julia Roberts, hints at the direction he may take.

**Bottega Veneta**
**Designer**: Louise Trotter
**Debut Date**: September 27
**Background**: Trotter, known for her elegant designs, has the challenge of furthering Bottega Veneta’s single-digit growth in a tough market while maintaining its reputation for Italian craftsmanship.

Highlights from Paris

**Dior**
**Designer**: Jonathan Anderson
**Debut Date**: October 1
**Background**: Anderson steps into the role of creative director for women’s, men’s, and haute couture collections at Dior. He succeeds Maria Grazia Chiuri, who significantly boosted the brand’s revenues to **£9.5 billion** (approximately **US$12.96 billion**) during her tenure.

**Mugler**
**Designer**: Miguel Castro Freitas
**Debut Date**: October 2
**Background**: Castro Freitas, previously of Sportmax, takes on the challenge of revitalizing Mugler’s fashion division, which has gained traction under former creative director Casey Cadwallader.

**Carven**
**Designer**: Mark Thomas
**Debut Date**: October 2
**Background**: Thomas aims to solidify Carven’s identity after its acquisition by Chinese group Icicle in 2018, following a period of instability.

**Loewe**
**Designers**: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
**Debut Date**: October 3
**Background**: The duo faces the task of continuing the legacy of Jonathan Anderson, who expanded the brand’s revenues significantly during his tenure.

**Maison Margiela**
**Designer**: Glenn Martens
**Debut Date**: October 4
**Background**: Martens follows a successful period under John Galliano, and his first collection has already garnered positive attention.

**Balenciaga**
**Designer**: Pierpaolo Piccioli
**Debut Date**: October 4
**Background**: Piccioli, known for his commercial success at Valentino, will redefine Balenciaga’s image, shifting away from its recent streetwear focus.

**Jean Paul Gaultier**
**Designer**: Duran Lantink
**Debut Date**: October 5
**Background**: Lantink, who has previously made waves with his avant-garde style, will strive to create a cohesive brand identity while honoring Gaultier’s legacy.

**Chanel**
**Designer**: Matthieu Blazy
**Debut Date**: October 6
**Background**: Unlike many of his counterparts, Blazy’s challenge is more stylistic than financial, as Chanel’s revenue remained relatively stable at **US$18.7 billion** in 2024.

As these designers prepare for their big reveals, the fashion industry awaits to see who will succeed in this high-stakes environment. With everything on the line, the upcoming fashion weeks promise to be both a spectacle and a battleground for creative talent.