Chef Mirko Febbrile Redefines Fine Dining at Somma in Singapore

Chef Mirko Febbrile is transforming the concept of fine dining at Somma, a restaurant located at 46 Kim Yam Road, New Bahru. Instead of traditional luxury ingredients like caviar or truffles, the dining experience begins with an eggplant and innovative cooking techniques that challenge the norms of gastronomy. The latest menu, which took three months of meticulous development, showcases how time and creativity can redefine luxury in dining.

At Somma, the culinary team has access to a dedicated, high-tech R&D kitchen that allows them to experiment with flavors and textures. Febbrile emphasizes the importance of time in crafting extraordinary dishes, stating, “The best luxury that people can find these days is time.” For instance, a scallop may be aged in wax for five days, while a garum, a fermented sauce, requires six months before it reaches perfection. The process often includes numerous failures, with 50 failed soufflés necessary to achieve just one flawless version.

Innovative Techniques and Sustainable Practices

During one of the R&D sessions, where around 70% of the new menu was finalized, Febbrile demonstrated a unique cooking method inspired by traditional techniques from Puglia, Italy. He encased an eggplant in leftover clay from a nearby pottery studio, wrapping it in fig leaves and thyme. This not only enhances the flavor but also reduces waste, as every part of the vegetable is utilized. The eggplant emerges from the oven with a smoky aroma, its flesh transformed into a creamy base for a ditali pasta dish.

Febbrile describes the dish as embodying the essence of comfort food while elevating it to a gourmet experience. “It feels like we took this dish from your grandmother’s house, but the approach is above and beyond,” he noted. The emphasis on flavor and texture creates a familiar yet innovative experience for diners.

The new Vendemmia menu also prominently features mushrooms, which are showcased in artistic presentations that resemble sculptures. The menu draws inspiration from the harvest season, reflecting themes of abundance and craftsmanship. Local farm Bewilder supplies various types of mushrooms, allowing Febbrile to explore their diverse flavors. He remarked on the nuances of texture and taste, highlighting the importance of even subtle differences in enhancing a dish’s overall character.

Embracing Failure and the Art of Persistence

With an estimated 1,800 man-hours dedicated to developing each menu, the process is both laborious and enriching. Loris Caporizzi, Somma’s head of R&D, shared the reality of the creative journey: “The job is really constant failure.” Each unsuccessful attempt serves as a valuable lesson, contributing to the evolution of future dishes.

Caporizzi takes pride in his fermentation experiments, which include various types of shoyu and miso. These projects require patience and careful monitoring, as they bubble and darken over time. Reflecting on a particularly challenging chicken garum that did not succeed, he emphasized that the journey of experimentation is integral to their culinary philosophy.

As diners experience Somma’s offerings, they will encounter the fig soufflé crafted by pastry chef Jeanette Ow. This dessert, which took over 50 attempts to perfect, embodies the spirit of persistence that characterizes the restaurant’s approach. Ow humorously recalled her frustrations during the process but ultimately recognized the importance of each trial.

“R&D is like a conversation with the ingredient: You listen, you push, you compromise, until it shows you what it wants to be,” Febbrile explained. This philosophy underpins the restaurant’s commitment to circular cooking and sustainable practices, ensuring that every dish tells a story and leaves a lasting impression.

As Somma pushes the boundaries of fine dining, it invites guests to join in this exploratory culinary adventure, where every meal is not just about sustenance but also about creativity, innovation, and the joy of discovery.