Chef Mirko Febbrile Unveils Innovative Dishes at Somma’s R&D Kitchen

At Somma, an avant-garde restaurant in Singapore, chef Mirko Febbrile is revolutionizing fine dining by blending culinary innovation with traditional techniques. The restaurant’s dedicated research and development (R&D) kitchen has been the birthplace of a new menu that emphasizes creativity and sustainability. This process, spanning three months, emphasizes the importance of time in creating exceptional culinary experiences.

The preparation of dishes begins not with luxury ingredients like caviar or truffles, but with humble eggplants and leftover clay from a nearby pottery studio. During a recent R&D session, Febbrile demonstrated an innovative cooking technique inspired by the clay-rich region of Puglia. The eggplant is wrapped in fig leaves and thyme, encased in clay, and then baked in the oven. This method enhances the vegetable’s natural flavors while avoiding bitterness, resulting in a dish that surprises the palate.

When the clay is cracked open at the table, it releases an aromatic blend of smoky thyme and baked earth. The eggplant, now transformed, serves as a creamy base for a ditali pasta dish, showcasing Somma’s commitment to minimizing waste by utilizing every part of the vegetable. Febbrile describes the dish as capturing the essence of comfort food while elevating it to a new level.

The restaurant’s new Vendemmia menu draws inspiration from seasonal harvests, celebrating abundance and craftsmanship. Mushrooms play a significant role in this menu, with varieties sourced from local farm Bewilder. The dining experience is complemented by mycelium plates and utensils that add an artistic touch. As Febbrile prepares an array of mushrooms, he engages diners by exploring their diverse textures and flavors, highlighting the interplay between chewiness, sweetness, and earthiness.

In the R&D kitchen, every experiment is treated with the seriousness of scientific inquiry. The team, including Loris Caporizzi, head of R&D, meticulously evaluates each component, from the acidity of vinegars to the umami of mushrooms. The goal is not merely to find the best-tasting element, but to identify those that contribute character to the dish. “It’s a very minimal difference. Nobody will feel it. But for us, it’s very important, so we still do it,” Febbrile explained, underscoring the meticulous nature of their work.

Developing a new menu at Somma requires an estimated 1,800 man-hours, during which the team embraces the inevitability of failure as part of the creative process. Caporizzi candidly notes that the job involves constant trial and error, leading to eventual success. “The failures are still delicious,” he remarked, emphasizing that each setback informs future culinary endeavors.

The fermentation shelf in the kitchen, filled with jars of miso, shoyu, and experimental vinegars, represents the patience and care that goes into creating unique flavors. Caporizzi reminisced about a particularly unsuccessful chicken garum, illustrating the dedication the chefs have to refining their craft.

At the heart of Somma’s culinary philosophy is a commitment to conversation with ingredients. Febbrile explains, “R&D is like a conversation with the ingredient: You listen, you push, you compromise, until it shows you what it wants to be.” This dialogue leads to dishes that not only satisfy but also create lasting memories for diners.

One standout dessert on the new menu is a fig soufflé crafted by pastry chef Jeanette Ow. After over 50 failed attempts, she perfected this dish, which showcases her perseverance and skill. Ow humorously remarked that she never wanted to see another soufflé again, but the final product is a testament to her dedication.

Somma, located at 46 Kim Yam Road, New Bahru, offers an innovative dining experience that pushes the boundaries of fine cuisine. The restaurant’s focus on experimentation and sustainability highlights the evolving landscape of modern gastronomy, where traditional methods meet contemporary creativity. Through their dedication to quality and innovation, Febbrile and his team are not just creating dishes; they are crafting art that resonates with diners long after the meal is over.